We distil the science behind the Escentric Molecules range to find out why they’re some of the best modern fragrances around. It’s scent for the 21st century…
It’s not often someone comes along and changes the rules of the game, especially in a world so secretive and steeped in tradition as perfumery. But that’s exactly what Geza Schön has done. Eschewing the mainstream world of fragrance within which he worked for many years to go it alone, he created Escentric Molecules; a brand pushing the boundaries of scent science. Geza is a rebel perfumer and has singlehandedly turned the fragrance industry on its head, all from an apartment on top of a ‘60s tower block in Berlin.
Imposing as it may seem, the Escentric range is remarkably stripped back. Hell-bent on the minimalist doctrine, the brand focuses on a very specific series of aroma molecules, producing fragrances as a pair; a version containing only one isolated ingredient, the Molecule, and a counterpart with carefully-selected added elements, the Escentric. The selected notes are added in specific proportions to best complement the molecule, resulting in a series of precision-engineered, modern and unisex fragrances.
Molecule 01 is Escentric’s signature, launched in 2005. Based on one single-note aroma molecule that isn’t found in nature, ISO E Super, it hovers close to the skin creating an indefinable, mysterious aura that seemingly comes and goes at will. ISO E Super is found in many high-end fragrances in small concentrations, adding a velvety depth to the other notes present. But as the sole note In M01, it makes you smell fantastic without you even realising.
Molecule 02 is the single note aroma chemical Ambroxan which is a radiant and long-lasting ‘dry down’, perfume-speak for the heavy, lingering base notes that hang close to the skin. It’s a key component of grey amber which has been used in traditional perfumes for centuries and is valued for its refinement and sensuality. There’s a fresh and mineral-like quality to M02, and it comes paired with a balanced array of fizzy, refined notes for its Escentric counterpart.
Molecule 03 is based on a molecule found in vetiver oil, a vibrant-smelling oil distilled from the roots of Indian vetiver grass. Vetiver oil has been used for hundreds of years in traditional Indian fragrances and has long been thought of as having health benefits. It has a slight grapefruit touch, giving its vibrant note a spicy undertone. Its counterpart, Escentric 03, has added elements to give a spicy ginger top note alongside rich, velvety base notes. It’s a sophisticated, spicy fragrance that elicits a lot of intrigue.
Molecule 04 is the most recent addition to the Escentric family and is labelled the ‘anti-Chanel No.5’. It contains only javanol, a molecule considered a modern and fresh interpretation of sandalwood. The perfume industry underwent somewhat an arms race to find replacement scents for natural sandalwood oil in the 1990s as its use had become unsustainable. Eventually, javanol was found as a powerful replacement, producing dramatic results whilst using only very small quantities. Its Escentric counterpart plays on the grapefruit accent of javanol, for a fragrance with even more zing.