There's a new wave of independent designers cutting through the noise and shaping the cities counter culture and creative output. Some new faces with some new approaches. We look into a handful of our current favourites and get a feel for the state of independent design in London. Check it out below...
DAN GEE
Who are you, where are you from and what do you do?
My name is Dan Gee, I’m from Canterbury in Kent but I live in London, and I design and make bags.
We’re noticing a rise of eco-conscious practices from small and/or independent designers. Why do you think this is?
I can only speak for myself, but as a small brand I don’t have access to big factories and fabric houses. This means with everything I make I have to be conscious of where I’m getting my materials from. So in practice you find ways of making the most of what’s available and using it to its fullest to try not to add to the vast amounts of waste that this industry has created.
"YOU FIND WAYS OF MAKING THE MOST OF WHAT'S AVAILABLE AND USING IT TO ITS FULLEST"
Recommend us a London lunch spot that’s local to you.
Smoking Goat will forever be my favourite.
Do you find the independent creative London scene to be a supportive network?
From my experience yes. I moved here in 2019 and didn’t even know how to sew yet. Although I learnt through YouTube, some people have definitely taken me under their wing and taught me so much more. All the people I’ve met have been incredibly supportive and they continue to drive me to be better.
What’s next in the pipeline?
I’m just continuing to find my feet. Create as much as possible, put it out into the universe and see what happens.
OCTI
Who are you, where are you from and what do you do?
I’m Octi, I’m a jewellery designer based in London and I run a brand (also called Octi).
How did you make the shift into starting your own jewellery label?
I taught myself how to make jewellery in lockdown and started selling it through instagram, using evenings and weekends to make and learn as much as possible while I was still working at my old job. By January 2022 it felt just about possible to go full time with the brand, so I left my job and it went from there.
Run us through a regular day. Concepts and ideas, designs, production, to shipping and wholesale. How does this look through the eyes of an independent designer?
My days can be really different depending on what time of year it is. I show at Paris Fashion Week twice a year and produce 2 seasons of wholesale a year, so my time is split between busy periods of making and designing or production (with all the admin continuously weaved in). I pretty much do everything myself so there’s always a big a big variety of things to be done, but my favourite kind of day is spent making and testing new designs.
You explore shapes, patterns and textures from the natural world. How does being based in London impact this?
A lot of the textures I work with come from castings of fruit and vegetable skins, so I’m often wandering around London’s off licences trying to find textures I haven’t cast yet. I think there’s a lot of beauty in mundane, natural objects, and through my work I try to capture this beauty using processes which abstract these forms from their original contexts.
Recommend us a London lunch spot that’s local to you.
My studio is just by London Fields and my favourite spot is La Bouche on Broadway Market. Only place I know in London where the tables face out to the street like they do in Paris. It’s really cute and the foods really good.
You’ve collaborated with the likes of Story mfg. and ROA. What does the power of collaboration mean to you as an independent designer?
It really means a lot to me. I feel so lucky to have had the opportunity to collaborate with both of these brands, as well as other independent designers and friends. Regardless of context or scale, I love the way collaborating brings 2 design languages together and gives both sides the freedom to explore something different. Working on a garment with Story mfg. was super exciting. It was so special to work with a brand who have such a unique approach to design and production and be a part of this process.
BLEU NOUR
What is Bleu Nour in one sentence?
The smell of colours.
What made you start Bleu Nour in 2023?
I wanted to create fragrances for people who wanted to experience beyond what mainstream perfume has to offer - scents for the bold, the visionary, and the creative.
What has your experience of being an independent business been so far?
So far, the feedback has been amazing, and I'm very grateful that in such a short span of time, opportunities have been unfolding, motivating me to continue this journey.
"THE CREATIVE SCENE IS MORE VARIED, AND THERE ARE MORE OPPORTUNITIES, IN MY OPINION"
You were born and raised in Paris and you now live and work in London. What was it about London’s creative scene that made you want to be based here?
Living in London wasn’t part of my plan; I studied here and started to feel at home. I decided it was best to establish myself here because the creative scene is more varied, and there are more opportunities, in my opinion.
Recommend us a London lunch spot that’s local to you.
Elliot’s in Hackney - they have the best steak ever.
What are your thoughts on being independent in 2024?
Being independent is easier now more than ever, as we have many resources to make the business journey smoother. Nowadays, it's feasible to start as a side hustle and then transition to full-time. 2024 is a great time for this.
ALEC DOHERTY
alecdohertyjewellery.com / @alecdohertyjewellery
Explain Alec Doherty in 5 words.
Two Martinis with a mate.
You’ve been designing and making jewellery for 5 years, whilst being an independent business. Talk us through the highs and lows, and ultimately why you’ve stayed independent?
For me working indie means freedom to build, with my own voice and keeping my ideas undiluted. Having an idea, working on it and bringing it to life is so rewarding. There is nothing more satisfying than that piece you've been working so hard to bring to life, then being worn and enjoyed by someone passing you in the street, a real buzz, something I love.
You’ve got to be lucky, for your ideas to be seen and recognised at the right moments, that can be tough sometimes when you feel your luck is a little down. You are also so invested in what you do, when you do hit a bump in the road, it can be emotional. In the end that's part of the joy of it all and those small moments really do make the highs all the higher. The art I really love and resonates with me, always has the maker's voice. Independence in that way is everything to me and to my practice and the way I want to go on working.
What to you, sets London’s independent/creative scene apart from other cities?
Unlike other cities, for me, London is rooted in a peopled history. You can see and feel walking its streets. I think there is a constant desire in the city for new ways of doing things. People from all walks of life are here to earn a living, learn, enjoy the culture, and a lot come here to pursue their dreams. That mix of history, new ideas and hopes, fuels the creative character of the city. It's an amazing place to be with constant inspiration just being out amongst it. I think that's one of the major reasons this city has such a unique and thriving indie scene and will continue to do so.
Recommend us a London lunch spot that’s local to you?
I live in South East London, my favourite spot for lunch is falafel & shawarma on Camberwell Church Street, forever a staple feeding hungry art students and locals for under a fiver. Falafel wrap, chilli and garlic and the carrot and ginger juice.
If you didn’t run Alec Doherty, what would you be doing?
I actually have no idea. I’ve been very lucky and so grateful to do something I love and call it a job. I’d probably be a bit lost without it, I guess I’d be scratching around trying to figure it out, always loved music, heady dreams of being a musician as a younger boy, maybe I’d be doing something like that.
What are your thoughts on being independent in 2024?
It’s been a tough few years, we’re due some good times and I think the future is bright for independent business and culture. We all crave the new, innovative and the honest, there is no realer place for that to come from than small independents. It’s so important that they are supported and celebrated so they can thrive and continue to make our landscapes a more interesting and inspiring place to be.
SAMPAIX
sampaix.co.uk / @sampaixstudio
Who are you, where are you from and what do you do?
I'm Jared Knight, I'm from Manchester and now live in London, I'm the Designer and Founder of SAMPAIX.
What prompted you to start SAMPAIX?
The journey started as an outlet for my self-education as I learned to sew and construct garments shortly after leaving university.
"ACCESS TO ONCE-GATED INFORMATION HAS OPENED UP THE WORLD OF POSSIBILITIES FOR DESIGNERS AND CREATIVE ENTREPRENEURS"
We’re feeling a new wave of small and/or independent designers. Why do you think there’s a rise right now?
WIFI and an idea are the new barrier of entry. Access to once-gated information has opened up the world of possibilities for designers and creative entrepreneurs. I think this has been pivotal for people coming from non-traditional design backgrounds.
Recommend us a London lunch spot that’s local to you?
Caribbean Flavours in E11- it's my go-to breakfast/lunch spot when I’m at the factory.
What else can we expect to see from SAMPAIX in the coming months?
I don't want to say too much I'd rather let our actions speak but 2024 has been a great year for us so far. We plan to water the seeds we've sewn, stay grounded and continue working.