In the beginning there was Urahara, and it pioneered a movement in Japanese street style and culture. Now there’s a newer cult wave, Neo-Tokyo, led by futuristic graphics, premium fabrics and colourful pattern clash, taking cues from Japan’s capital. Brought to you by the likes of NOMA t.d., WTAPS, Cav Empt, and Neighborhood. Check it out below.
Track Pants and Shirts
The first pair of track pants were produced in France in 1920. Grey, jersey trousers that were designed to enhance movement and comfort during exercise, the aim here was functionality, not design. Needles' track pants ride that line between both. Flexible and breathable materials mixed with bold print, new seasonal colours and a choice of fabrics. The pant being somewhere between made for function and made to look good allows for both formal and informal dressing, and we're opting for formal. The special fabrics, embroidery and boxy cuts of a NOMA t.d. shirt. A relaxed yet refined look.
MODEL WEARS Sub Sun x Goodhood GH004, NOMA t.d. Bandana Hand Embroidery Shirt, Needles Track Pant, Birkenstock Boston Leather
Mix and Match
The subtle art of mismatched patterns. Difficult to get right, but when it’s good… it’s really good. One of the keys fundamental parts of successful pattern clashing; get your brand right. NOMA t.d. are total masters of print, the notorious Needles Rebuild is a no brainer seeing as it’s already jam-packed with multiple colours and patterns, atop a maximalist design Needles Track Pant. Winner.
MODEL WEARS Sub Sun x Nicholas Daley SUB-ND, NOMA t.d. Hand Dyed Twist Sweat, Needles Rebuild 7 Cuts Flannel Shirt, Needles Track Pant, Birkenstock Arizona Suede
Re-Engineered Americana
Amerciana revisted through a Japanese lens. Classic western shapes, cuts and fits like the Hawaiian shirt, elevated to the max with enriching fabrics and outrageous prints. Take note from the above formal black shoe covered in snake print. A classic bowling-style shirt adorned in Jean-Michel Basquiat all-over print. Taking a simple, classically American styles and elevating them to a contemporary fit.
MODEL WEARS Brain Dead Elia Sunglasses, Wacko Maria Western Jacket (Type-1), Wacko Maria Jean-Michel Basquiat / S/S Hawaiian Shirt (Type-1), Goods by Goodhood Curb Chain, Stussy Stripe Volume Pleated Trouser, Clarks x Wacko Maria Wallabee
Japanese Accessories
Popular in many cultures, subcultures, and regions of dressing, but no one does accessorising quite like the Japanese. Jewellery, caps and sunglasses are key forms of expression and are the cherry on top of your fit. Even something as simple as a crisp white sock contrasting your sneaker but matching your long sleeved under layer t-shirt can transform your look.
MODEL WEARS WTAPS Militia / Cap 06 / Ctpl. Twill. Crevasse, Brain Dead Staunton Sunglasses, Neighborhood Solid-Colour Hawaiian Shirt SS, Goods by Goodhood Heavyweight Long Sleeve T-Shirt, WTAPS Crease DL / Trousers / Poly. Twill, Nike Terminator Low OG
Wild Style
You only need to look at one issue of Shoichi Aoki's legendary 'FRUiTS' Japanese street style magazine to see that the Japanese youth really are masters of (re)mixing styles, incorporating colour pops, clashing patterns and playful textures like no other fashion tribe before (or after). Whether it be Toga's western-inspired embellished hardware or loud animal prints from Wacko Maria.
MODEL WEARS Brain Dead Staunton Sunglasses, Wacko Maria Leopard Velvet Jacket, Wacko Maria Ghost In The Shell / S/S Hawaiian Shirt (Type-5), South2 West8 Belted C.S. Short, Suicoke x TOGA Moto Sandal
Stealth Mode
Street style in Japan doesn’t always mean big patterns and colours. Muted, understated tones are just as relevant and appreciated, because its the fabrics that do all the talking. We’re talking thick fleeceback hoodies with an enclosed high neck hood design from Cav Empt, paired with a beautifully technical and functional all-black mule by Brain Dead and Oakley Factory Team.
MODEL WEARS Sun Buddies Junior Jr. Sunglasses, C.E Cav Empt Overdye Pq Light Hoody, Nike ACG "Snowgrass" Mens Cargo Shorts, Brain Dead x Oakley Factory Team Jacquard Chop Saw Mule
Long Sleeve / Short Sleeve Layering
Grunge, noise rock and skateboarding has carried the long sleeve / short sleeve layering torch for some time. Japanese street style has seen an increase of this, but go back to the re-engineered Americana big patterned printed shirts we talking about earlier, and the dots begin to join themselves. Matching the colours on each layer is key, and can be as simple as a white spider web pattern on a white long sleeve t-shirt.
MODEL WEARS Neighborhood Spiderweb Bucket Hat, Sub Sun x Goodhood GH001, Neighborhood Spiderweb Hawaiian Shirt SS, Have A Good Time Mini Green Frame Long Sleeve T-Shirt, WTAPS Seagull 01 / Trousers / Poly. Twill, Clarks Originals Weaver GTX
Cult Graphics
We always have and always will champion graphic t-shirts. Be it a piece of artwork you can wear, a message you can get across, a culture you represent. Cult Japanese label Have A Good Time hit the nail on the head with their Post Office Logo T-Shirt. Tapping into NYC graffiti culture, nostalgically reminding us of the days where "borrowed" post office and delivery company stickers were covered in tags and stuck on the streets.
MODEL WEARS WTAPS Militia / Cap 06 / Ctpl. Twill. Crevasse, WTAPS Bandaria / Bandana / Cotton. Crossbones, WTAPS Shirt 01 / CBW / Long Sleeve / Cotton. Denim, Have A Good Time Post Office Logo Short Sleeve T-Shirt, WTAPS SDDS2001 / Shorts / Cotton. Ripstop, New Balance 550GD1 Grey Day
The A-Z of Neo-Tokyo at Goodhood
Cav Empt
Based in Tokyo, Cav Empt (C.E.) was founded by Sk8thing, Hishi and Toby Feltwell. Previously working together, the trio have joined forces to form C.E. As the graphic designer for A Bathing Ape, Billionaire Boys Club and Human Made, Sk8thing is highly experienced (and respected) when it comes to producing playful and exciting products. C.E. has risen from its previously relatively unknown status into one of the hottest brands in the business today, with some unbeatable and unique graphic outputs.
Needles
Founded in 1995, Needles, just one of the sub-brands housed under the infamous Nepenthes, filters elements of vintage americana, military and sportswear into vibrant and unique garments unique from any other. Making a name for themselves with their iconic Needles Rebuild - centering around the concept of clothes once mass produced and left without purpose and rebuilding them into brand new seasonal pieces - and the signature style of the H.D. Pant, the brand has gone on to gained a loyal following of individuals who are looking for something different from the rest.
Neighborhood
Established in Tokyo, 1994, by young motorcycle enthusiast Shinsuke Takizawa, Neighborhood was built out of a desire for well-designed, premium quality motorcycle apparel. Dissatisfied with the ill-fitting and poorly crafted trad product available at the time, Shinsuke set out to create expert technical apparel, heavily inspired by the American motorcycle aesthetic, as well as varied aspects of US counter-culture and military, workwear and Native American design.
Alongside brands such as Wtaps, Undercover and A Bathing Ape, Neighborhood would play a huge part in what is now known as the 'Ura-Harajuku' or 'Ura-Hara' movement, and would go on to change the face of contemporary streetwear as we know it today. The brand takes pride in crafting product that is luxury in every sense of the word, utilising technical design and premium construction to create truly beautiful garments.
NOMA t.d.
NOMA t.d. was founded by Masako Noguchi and Takuma Sasaki. Noguchi graduated from Musashino Art University in Tokyo before studying textile design at Chelsea College of Art in 2003. Since graduating she has designed textiles for a number of fashion labels. Sasaki ran his own boutique in Tokyo and has travelled extensively in search of talented young designers. NOMA t.d. was launched to combine the pair's talents, experience, and knowledge of design. They produce a range of their own textiles by utilising handcrafted graphics and their collection has steadily grown in size and popularity since they launched in 2005. The label's signatures include exceptional attention to detail and a free, interpretive style.
South2 West8
Sitting under the mighty Nepenthes family tree, South2 West8 started as an independent retailer before developing into a clothing brand. Founded in 2002 by Kaname Nagaoka, the brand largely takes inspiration from the art of Tenkara fly fishing. Their distinctive pieces feature technical details fused with bold prints, durable fabrics and relaxed silhouettes.
Have A Good Time
Have a Good Time are a small group of graffiti artists based in Tokyo. They run a tiny shop on a back alley in Nakameguro that deals in weird and wonderful books, music, art, toys and clothes gathered from their travels, sitting alongside their cult-Japanese clothing line.
The eponymous label is centred around their signature frame logo, often printed on basic t-shirts, sweats, accessories and lifestyle additions. Since initial conception, Have A Good Time has gained popularity due to a number of international collaborations with Adidas, Vans and BEAMS.
Wacko Maria
We've been a fan of this cult Tokyo label for a minute. The brand was created by two former J-League Football players and friends, Nobuhiro Mori & Keiji Ishizuka, and was born out of their first venture, the Rock Steady bar in Tokyo. The brand's main inspirations revolve around American culture, film, music, photography and girls. The quality is always premium, but it's their no unique and rebellious attitude that really sets them apart.
They've even collaborated with some of the biggest names from the underground art world, including LA tattooist Tim Lehi, and Japanese photographer Daido Moriyama. Look out for their signature styling across classic pieces such as cardigans, coach jacket, army shirts, and more featuring intricate graphic embroidery, bold text, and the signature Wacko Maria 'GUILTY PARTIES' type.
WTAPS
Launched in 1996 by Japanese designer Tetsu Nishiyama (aka TET), menswear line WTAPS (pronounced 'double taps') takes inspiration from military designs, classic streetwear and the great outdoors. With an ethos of Miya-Daiku - 'placing things where they should be' - the brand’s manufacturing process is inspired by resourceful carpenters who construct sturdy and timeless architectures.