A Closer Look
Mens Military Jackets
04 Nov 2016
MILITARY JACKETS / AW16
A CLOSER LOOK DECONSTRUCTION REFERENCES
Military references are a major inspiration for this seasons jacket collection. We take a closer look at pieces from Wacko Maria, Neighborhood, Universal Works, A.Four, Schott & Norse Projects.
WACKO MARIA / M-65 FIELD JACKET
COLOUR: BLACK. BLACK SIZE: 2, MEDIUM. 3, LARGE FABRIC: 100% COTTON.
2015 marked the 50th anniversary for the iconic M-65 Jacket, which was born from the Vietnam War in order to combat the given climate. Updates from its predecessor the M-51 included the concealed hood & velcro sleeves. It's widely documented that many soldiers were against the Vietnam War and a progression in a liberal attitude around the world lead to soldiers speaking about their disagreements about the war. This led to many of the soldiers customising their own uniform with sayings, slogans or even imagery. Wacko Maria's AW16 reincarnation of the jacket stayed fairly true to the standard army issue but this obvious customisations throughout.
- Concealed Front Zip Closure w/ Snap Fasten Placket
- Graphic on Front & Back
- Two Front Chest Pockets w/ Snap Closure
- Zip at Neck for Concealed Hood
NEIGHBORHOOD / KENDALL WORK JACKET
COLOUR: BLACK. SIZE: 0, X-SMALL. 1, SMALL. 2, MEDIUM. 3, LARGE. 4 X-LARGE FABRIC: 100% COTTON.
This is another Jacket that takes its inspiration from The Vietnam War. Many soldiers wanted something to take home with them to remember the time they went through there. At the end of the Second World War, the Japanese sold silk embroidered bombers to the American soldiers, which coined the term ‘Souvenir Jacket’. During the Vietnam War these jacket evolved into a cotton work jacket, and the intricate designs were replaced with more political statements, or lists of where the solider had been. This particular design from neighbourhood is also reminiscent of a mechanics jacket, as the embroidered chest patch looks similar to a nametag, which was common in classic American garages from the 40s onwards.
- Front Embroidered Patch
- Back Embroidery
- 2 Side Welt Pockets
SCHOTT / M-90 ROYAL AIR FORCE DUFFLECOAT
COLOUR: BROWN/YELLOW. SIZE: 2, MEDIUM. 3, LARGE. 4, X-LARGE FABRIC: 100% SHEEPSKIN SUEDE.
Based on a M-90 Royal Air Force Duffle coat, this Schott Limited Edition piece updates an old vintage classic with premium sheepskin & a bright yellow back. The collection for their current release combines classic military jackets with the theme of 'watch your back!' taken from hunting jackets, so that hunters didn't shoot each other. The collection is limited to 40 pieces per style and has all been made and designed in Europe.
- Front Zip & Wooden Toggle Fastening
- Two Zip Hand Pockets
- Contrast Yellow Back Panel
- Soft Wool Lining
- Woven Label at Rear Hem
UNIVERSAL WORKS / N-1 JACKET
COLOUR: OLIVE, NAVY SIZE: 1, SMALL. 2, MEDIUM. 3, LARGE. 4, X-LARGE FABRIC: 100% COTTON.
Initially created for the U.S Navy vessel workers during WW2 the N1 Deck Jacket is one of the most common reproduced military jackets due to its fit and simplicity. The Standard army issue version included U.S.N stencilled on the left chest of the jacket. Here Universal Works create their own version of the classic piece which features:
- Faux Sheepswool Lining
- Single Chest Button Pocket
- 2 Welt Hand Pockets
A.FOUR / FISHTAIL PARKA JACKET
COLOUR: NAVY. SIZE: 2, MEDIUM. 1,LARGE FABRIC: 100% COTTON,
Introduced due to a brutal winter during the Korean War, the fishtail parka ensured the soldiers were fully covered and stayed warm. Re-appropriated by the British Mods of the 1960s to keep warm on their scooters they started to customise their jackets with iconography associated with the subculture. A.Four collaborates with artist Cali Thornhill DeWitt to create a Mod Inspired aesthetic, with a military base.
- Front Button Closure
- Two Front Pockets at Waist
- Single Front Pocket at Chest
- Graphic on Back & Sleeves
- Draw cord at Waist & Hood
- Fishtail Hem w/ Drawcord
NORSE PROJECTS / NUNK JACKET
COLOUR: OLIVE, RED, NAVY SIZE:1, SMALL. 2, MEDIUM. 3, LARGE. 4, X-LARGE FABRIC: 100% COTTON,
Another jacket based off a parka, The Norse Projects Nunk Jacket, is a cropped simplified Scandinavian take on a classic. It still retains features such as a drawstring waist and front double patch projects. The crop on the jacket, to a standard length, creates a much more modern feel to the piece of outerwear.
- Jersey Lined
- Primaloft Insulation
- Two Way Zip Fastening
- Storm Flap w/ Popper Closure
- Adjustable Drawstring Hood
- Two Flap Pockets
- Ribbed Storm Cuffs
- Internal Stash Pocket
NEIGHBORHOOD / MA-1 BOMBER JACKET
COLOUR: OLIVE DRAB. SIZE:2, MEDIUM. 3, LARGE FABRIC: 100% NYLON
In the 1950s nylon was introduced to flight jackets, enabling a lighter jacket that still kept the pilots warm. The fur collar was replaced with a kitted one as the fur got in the way when deploying their parachute. Also an orange lining was introduced so that if the pilots were stranded they had more chance of being spotted. Over the years The MA-1 has again be re-appropriated by a British Subculture, The Skinheads. Paired with bleached jeans and Dr.Martens, the jacket became a staple in the outfit of a skin. Neighborhood keeps it classic, even down to the smaller details like the radio wire fastens, but is finished with modern Thinsulate lining.
- Thinsulate Insulation
- Elasticated Rib Collar, Cuffs & Hem
- Orange Linging
- Pop Fasten Pockets
- Woven Logo Tag
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