It’s that time of year again. As the new season rolls around, we see a fresh new set of themes and trends that’ll come to define what we wear in 2018, and influence what comes after. Ever keeping our eyes on the prize, we’ve rounded up some of the best new brands arriving in store, and some of our old favourites, to look at what’s coming up for the spring/summer season…
Fans of Needles and Engineered Garments, brace yourselves. There’s a new kid on the block. Joining the big leagues of utilitarian wear is AïE, a new and low-key label from New York. You thought that everything that could be done with traditional workwear silhouettes had been done, right? Wrong. Picks from these guys include a tartan check laundry bag, subtly detailed pants, and that fire paisley-cum-floral jacket. Brilliantly ostentatious doesn’t come close, and only at Goodhood.
Beams Plus is coming into its sophomore year at Goodhood, but it already feels like a graduate. As one of the old guard Tokyo brands of those Harajuku glory days, don’t expect any out-there surprises but do expect classic cuts, prints and quality that’s second to none. Well, maybe one or two surprises - checkered patchwork coat, anyone? Still, those stripes tees are timeless, and who doesn't need a paisley shirt when summer rocks up?
Am I sat sippin’ a tequila sunrise on Ocean Drive with Telly Savalas, or what? CMMN SWDN channels ‘70s splendour in their latest collection, taking cues from the palette of Leonard Horowitz, the man behind South Beach’s pastel renovation. There are plenty of ostentatious cuts, patterning, and proportions that wouldn’t look at all out of place in a Key West cabana. If they say fashion is cyclical then this is proof enough; the ‘70s are back, baby. Old Miami through and through.
Flagstuff is flagship neo-Tokyo. Taking inspiration from the ’90s, anime, the whole ‘grungey graphics’ thing and more, it’s certainly one for the Cav Empt fans. There’s a host of graphic prints so good even Henry Rollins wouldn’t be offended if his tattoos were reproduced like for like on a white hoodie which, as it just so happens, is exactly what Flagstuff has done. Does anyone remember old FUCT? We certainly do…
JUNYA WATANABE MAN
The Rei Kawakubo protégé certainly has a way of stitching things together. Remember Spring/Summer 2015 when Junya Watanabe brought out a collection heavily influenced by Boro, the Japanese tradition centred on patching rags and scraps? Fast-forward to this season and we’re working along similar lines, albeit in a more modern context, with anoraks patchworked together from cut-up Karrimor and North Face backpacks and hiking jackets. It’s not the only element of utilitarianism from the collection – there’s a Carhartt collaboration that effortlessly shows “the legit way to wear workwear” as the designer put it, on a show note…
NEIGHBORHOOD & Luker
Historically, we’ve figured that if we could only wear one brand for the rest of eternity, it’d be Shinsuke Takizawa’s signature label. This season’s Neighborhood and Luker collections are no exception, and luxury in every sense of the word yet again takes centre stage. Modern, street-focused takes on utility garments make up the bulk of the collection, with embroidered takes on the classic bombers, military jackets, and denim shirts, whilst Shinsuke’s short sleeve selections run a subtle but distinct nautical theme. Luker's even collaborated with legendary Japanese record label Major Force... It’s not often a brand can come along and change the face of contemporary streetwear, but that’s exactly what Neighborhood has done.
Store favourites Norse Projects are back with another batch of pure Scandi minimalism. We see the return of the classic Anker jacket, and there are new iterations of core classics like the Aros chino and the Anton Oxford shirt, plus a whole smörgåsbord of new summer lines. Expect the exceptional, every day.
Malmö’s finest, Très Bien, are back with another healthy dose of Scandi style. Born amidst the resurgence of big-name Nordic brands such as Acne Studios, Cheap Monday, Our Legacy and the like, they’ve been selling some of the best names around for over a decade. They’ve also produced their own ready-to-wear men’s collections. This season, expect quality refinement in the form of enticing pattern shirts, striped turtleneck zip-ups, and wild belts. Who said premium basics had to be plain?
Unused is becoming somewhat of a fixture at Goodhood, and it’s not hard to see why. Championing bold and daring takes on classic styles, the brand known for their ‘Refined Garments’ mantra is offering up a fresh batch of leftfield-yet-elegant pieces that break down the traditional standards of menswear from collar to hem, even when it’s just a pocket long sleeve tee. If everyone dressed like this season’s lookbook, it’d be hard to tell if we were all on acid or not.
Last, but certainly not least, is cult Tokyo label Wacko Maria with another zany collection that redefines the limits of streetwear, and leaves lesser labels quivering in their wake. Japanese Hawaiian Shirts? Yes. Embroidered Vietnam jackets? Absolutely. Daido Moriyama collaboration? One hundred percent. They’re as zero fucks given as they ever were, and that’s all that really needs to be said.