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notes from the editor

 

Welcome to the first edition of Think Zine. We hope this will become a regular feature here where we explore ideas and happenings in a colloquial, informal way. We talk constantly here at Goodhood between ourselves, with industry people and with customers and this is perhaps our attempt to package some of that into a format where we can draw parallels between what we are seeing and experiencing and try to make sense of it all. We decided to kick off the first edition by talking about the influence of music on fashion right now as of May 2015. Personally for me growing up, music was an undeniable influence on my identity; from metal through grunge and beyond to Tommy Hill and Wu Tang, it seems perhaps my generations style was always intrinsically linked to music. Needless to say it’s still a heavy influence on the style of Goodhood. When the older among us reminisce of times gone by, when tribes were more prevalent and inspiration was perhaps harder to find, we wonder whether the journey to create an identity was more meaningful...

- Kyle 

 

 

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GREG K

Cultural Cultivator @ fcknyh.com

1. What’s your earliest memory of music crossing over into fashion?

When I was 8 years old my parents got me a Slipknot hoodie for Christmas. I wore it into school on the first day back and by the end of the week the headmistress had called my Mum in to tell her they were banning hoodies. Looking back it was a pretty powerful image to give an 8-year old about the power of clothing to make statements, and if anything it worked completely contrary to the desired effect. A few years later I got really into punk and hardcore and used to go down to the Punker Bunker in Brighton on the weekend to buy CDs. I saw Chuck Taylors everywhere, at shows, on flyers, in magazines and they became this essential symbol of punk for me. I got a pair of black hi-tops and lived in them until they were beyond recognition.


2. Does music influence the way you dress?

Music was always my first passion and it had an immeasurable influence on how I formed my identity. I’ve always idolised Billy Corgan and the Smashing Pumpkins and over the years I’ve probably gone through every music-based style there is. I seem to have settled on this kind of Mike Kinsella, North-West Americana vibe, but I think it’s difficult to separate clothing from music and I don’t even know if I’d want to. To me military style is inherently tied to The Clash and Rage Against The Machine; ripped jeans and baggy jumpers are Grunge; button-ups and floppy hair is Jimmy Eat World and American Football. That personal aspect is so much more tangible in my mind and probably why I enjoy them both so much. I’ll always visualise the two within a single perspective.


3. Is there anything right now in May 2015 within the joint realms of music and fashion that is capturing your interest?

I really respect Skepta for going back to tracksuits and Nike TNs at a time when grime’s blowing up both here and overseas. JME said in an interview how Skepta didn’t want kids from his background to think they ever have to compromise their identity in order to achieve success and I think that’s a really powerful message. Similar thing in Lewisham with The Square all rocking their own branded clothes like a proper clique—‘Lightning strikes and then comes thunder, so many gal wanna ask for my number and ask for my jumper!' Grime has been going through some great developments recently and I’m glad the visual aspect is coming up with the music because it’s about time that raw British street identity got the attention it deserves. Keep your dunks, we got Reebok Classics.

 

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JO GOODHOOD

Co-founder @ Goodhood

1. What’s your earliest memory of music crossing over into fashion?

I grew up in Manchester and was a teenager at the time when the Acid House, Rave, Grunge and Madchester scenes were kicking off and in their element. At that time, for me and everyone else I knew there was no other way of dressing than in clothes and trends that reflected the music we were into. I don't think it ever occurred to me to look for clothing inspiration from anywhere else but the music scene that I was surrounded by. Every fashion or trend I adopted from the age of 13 onwards when I first started really getting into clothes and my personal statement, had its roots in music of the time and the culture surrounding it. What you wore showed the rest of the world what music you were into, and that was really important. It was tribal and communal, and everyone who was into those music movements really felt like they were a part of something meaningful and different...it was a really special time!


2. Does music influence the way you dress?

Yes definitely. Not so exclusively anymore but when your formative fashion years are so shaped by music and culture I don't think that ever leaves you, certainly not me. My personal style these days is a collection of references rooted in music and culture from over the past 25 years, and I like that, plucking things from all over the years and mixing it up. 


3. Is there anything right now in May 2015 within the joint realms of music and fashion that is capturing your interest? 

Hmmmm this is quite a tough one. I naturally look back a lot, which could be something to do with my age and the fact that not a lot seems new anymore, just a lot of reappropriation of what's been before. I think what's interesting now is that scenes, movements and music genres and the look that go with them aren't so strictly defined anymore. The lines between different tribes are more blurred and it means people can't be labelled as easily. I like that, I like seeing people reference stuff from all over the place in one look, not just following one trend or music movements uniform exactly. The uniforms that do exist in direct relation to the music they follow interest me but I can't say I love it..ASAP Rockys following of label obsessed kids is interesting but not exciting for me. It's been seen time and time again and doesn't really require much personality or individualism to replicate or be part of it, just some cash and blog reading. What is interesting though is the fundamentals are still the same as ever, your clothes making a statement to the world about who you are and what you are into..the need and desire to be part of something and the sense of inclusion and the attitude and sometimes arrogance that come with it, are still the same as years gone by.

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GARY WARNETT

Mr. Knowledge @ garywarnett.wordpress.com

1. What’s your earliest memory of music crossing over into fashion?

My most vivid early memories of seeing the connection between music and fashion was watching and videoing the Chart Show and Top of the Pops, and just being obsessed with what they wore. My dad watched me freeze framing Alyson Williams' 'Sleep Talk' video to look at the adidas Attitudes and Nike Revolutions — you couldn't get those shoes in my local sports shops — and he was like, "What's wrong with you?". He had a point. And the 'Don't Make Me Wait' video for Bomb the Bass that I think was a James Lebon production...that video introduced me to Jordan IIIs and Stussy around the time when it was in those M-Zone ads in RAD magazine and the prices were just unattainable. Surfwear and basketball trainers seemed very, very exotic. Both Stussy and Air Jordans have aged well too.


2. Does music influence the way you dress?

Yes. I'm a little too old to be trying to emulate musicians, but the Levi's, Schott and Converse is a hangover from my Springsteen and Lou Reed fandom. Pendletons, Polo, Ben Davis, white tees and Carhartt love comes from that hip-hop obsession — I really loved the west coast stuff as a kid in terms of aesthetics, like South Central Cartel, MC Eiht and Eazy, and I think you can connect Champion and Jordan to that whole Youth Crew uniform as well as hip-hop and skating — there's a lot of nice little hidden signifiers in the C and the Jumpman.


3. Is there anything right now in May 2015 within the joint realms of music and fashion that is capturing your interest? 

Loads. I'm always fascinated with rap's evolving love of high end gear. I like the fact that baggy jean conservatism has gone — when Jadakiss, who was always a baggy jeans and XXXL sweat kind of guy, namechecked Margiela a few years ago, I couldn't believe it. I think a lot of hip-hop's newer breed look great, and I think that's incredibly important in an MC. Rappers wearing the same free garms an indiscriminate PR company gave them time and time again is not hip-hop. 



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SILAS ADLER

Co-founder @ Soulland

1. What’s your earliest memory of music crossing over into fashion?

My earliest memory is when I snuck into a Raf Simons show in Paris and for the finale he played Zombie Nation, a hooliganish track that made a big impression on me … that’s fashion .. and of course there's memories of Wu Tang wearing sailing gear and before that, Ice-T wearing pimp style Kangol hat's with matching pants and vests all in the one colour. 


2. Does music influence the way you dress?

Nowadays, I'd say yes and no. Unconsciously it probably does, but I’ve got to a certain age and I think the influences come from other cultures like skateboarding or whatever but I'm not consciously influenced by music.


3. Is there anything right now in May 2015 within the joint realms of music and fashion that is capturing your interest? 

Hmmm, I like and am interested in how the new hip hop, the Atlanta and the Chicago guys are using fashion in quite a weird and unique way - mixing luxury with this kind of every day clothing... I think its interesting. The whole grime look I find cool because it’s very all black or white and its very British; right now it's so mashed together that you can't really specify the directions, it seems to come from everywhere. 



 

 

 

 

 

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THE ODD FUTURE EXPLOSION

Cats + Donuts + Supreme = Viral.

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KANYE X WES LANG

Kanye + Established Cool Artist + Offensive Reference Points = Viral.

 

 

 

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REAPPROPRIATION³

The Raf Simons collection from AW 2003 featuring Peter Saville graphics has became a heavily referenced aesthetic of internet generation start up fashion labels + Kanye = Viral. 

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GRIME GRIME GRIME

USA discovers grime + C.E = Viral.

 

 

 

 

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Did you spot Goodhood favourite Unused amongst the Dries, Undercover and Raf in ASAP
Rocky's trippy new L$D video? 

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We love Frank at Goodhood HQ, particulary his understated style and low key demeanor
and he can often be seen wearing other Goodhood favourites Neighborhood, Fuct and
Soulland and here he is wearing a banging P.A.M graphic tee from a few seasons ago. 

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A new generation of start up brands feeding off the blogosphere seems to be taking us towards a monoculture existence. The tribe is determined by the symbols of celebrity and the undercurrents of tribalism seem to be getting weaker. Perhaps pre internet people had to work hard to form their identity and would seek authenticity in the source of their inspiration but it’s just as interesting to see the internet creating a vehicle of second and third hand inspiration points that are constantly adding to the culture going forward. 

 


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