Counter Culture

The Fundamentals

Features

Foundation is everything... Nobody has the time or money to buy a new wardrobe once a season, so the idea is to build a solid core with structural, staple pieces. We've highlighted key pieces you can build around, from brands such as Norse Projects, Dickies, Stüssy, Converse, and more...

MILITARY JACKETS

A key wardrobe item since the 50s, variations of the military jacket have been a go-to for numerous sub-cultures; such as Mods and the M-48 and M-1951 fishtail parkas and NY street style and the iconic M-65 field jacket (made infamous by Robert De Niro as Travis Bickle in Taxi Driver).

Once the reserve of thrift and surplus stores, military jackets are now an outerwear mainstay appearing in collections from Neighborhood, Junya Watanabe, Raf Simons, Albam and more. These functional, utilitarian pieces are something everyone should own.

LIGHTWEIGHT AND MADE FOR LAYERING

M-81 BDU FIELD SHIRT

The original overshirt, the BDU Field Jacket was designed for warmer climates or as a layering piece - something that sets it apart to this day. The M-81 variant was the first item to feature US Woodland Camo. And if you were wondering, it stands for Battle Dress Uniform. Norse Project's Mads Jacket updates this classic lightweight jacket in cotton twill with the mandatory four front pockets, and the removal of the covered placket.

THE ORIGINAL BOMBER

MA-1 FLIGHT JACKET

The MA-1 fighter pilot jacket was the first military flight jacket to cross over into civilian fashion. Fully reversible, with zip arm pockets and storm cuff, the 'bomber' was the perfect balance of function, comfort and style. The Junya Watanabe Duck Jacket takes this classic short-length silhouette and fuses it with a longer body, large patch pockets and a corduroy collar.

THE FISHTAIL V2

M-51 PARKA

The M-1951 parka was the successor to the M-48, a fishtail silhouette, designed for the worst weather conditions, either over a full uniform, or alone. The ability to add liners, and most famously, fur collar trim, made it a go-to for generations. Universal Works opt to keep the design clean and simple, in single layer waxed cotton, with tied fishtail and covered zip fastening.

EVERYDAY SHIRT

A good 'everyday' shirt is a must-have in any wardrobe, and to be clear, by everyday, what we mean is, you can wear it on all sorts of situations, from job interview to skating. Whether it's an oxford, button down, striped or plain, finding the right one is a necessity.

STRIPED TEES

Another wardrobe must-have, the humble striped tee comes in numerous guises, from long sleeve to outlandish jacquard patterns. The bottom line is, one or two stripe tees can add a needed element of pattern and colour to any number of outfits.

BRETON

NAUTICAL STRIPES

Obviously, you don't need to be a sailor to wear nautical stripes, but they are a great blend of pattern and practicality. Generally made from heavier-weight cotton, often long sleeved, and sometimes wider necked, they are as versatile as it gets.

COLOURS

MULTI STRIPES

While stripes may traditionally be made of two contrasting colours, that doesn't mean that is always the case. More and more we see multi-stripe variants, introducing colour pops and tonal accents to great effect.

THIN

FINE STRIPES

Stripes - like everything else in life - come in all shapes and sizes, and the fine stripe is the thin and subtle counterpoint to the rest. An ideal way to combine colours in an interesting way, the fine stripe is a pattern not to be overlooked.

MORE

BLOCK STRIPES

Bolder and brighter than it's more understated counterparts, this iteration of stripe tee utilises colour-blocking, creating a panelled appearance and allows for some interesting colour combos.

FLEECE

The very definition of a transitional piece, a fleece can be worn as a lightweight jacket in warmer weather, or under a jacket once the cold properly ramps up. Really, they are just a level of cosy that everyone should have.

WORK TROUSERS

When it comes to finding a pair of pants that will last years - in terms of durablity and style - work trousers should be at the top of your list. Check out our selection of utility legwear from Stan Ray, Dickies, Engineered Garments and more...

INSPIRED BY FUNCTION

PAINTER PANTS

Possibly the most quintessential 'work' trouser, painter pants are instantly recognisable, with key features such as multiple pockets, brush loop and reinforced stitching. You don't need a wall to paint in order to own a pair, these hard-wearing pants should be a staple in any wardrobe.

THE ORIGINAL

DICKIES

Almost a century after their creation, Dickies has grown into an internationally recognised label producing wares far beyond their initial working clientele; seamlessly infiltrating hip-hop and skate subcultures whilst keeping price point and branding exactly the same as when they started.

FROM SURPLUS TO CIVILIAN

FATIGUE PANTS

Before the growth of niche clothing stores - nevermind the internet - the fatigue pant became a cult favourite, only available at military surplus outlets. Labourers loved the ultra-durable construction, affordability and comfort, which, in turn, lead to them becoming a mainstay for skaters, punks and hip-hop fans worldwide.

THE PERFECT PAIRING

RED WING

Once you've got your work trouser game sorted, some appropriate footwear is well worth considering. When talking about iconic American brands like Dickies, then Red Wing must be pretty close to the front of the queue in terms of the ideal pairing. Hard-wearing, comfortable and incredible value for money, Red Wing have stood the test of time for a reason!

PLAIN HOODIES

Originating around the tracks of American colleges, the hooded sweater is one of the most ubiquitous silhouettes around. Incredibly versatile, a block colour cotton hoodie is a must for everyone, as an everyday staple in a monochrome colourway or in a brighter hue as a contrast to muted outfits.