ARCS was born with the desire to create slow-made accessories that champion functionality while having minimal impact on the planet. Seamlessly blending form and function, creating apparel and accessories focused on technical innovation, function and quality fabrics. Head honcho Alice Carvill has moved into a new studio space, and we went down to take a look...
GOODHOOD: You’ve moved into a studio space since the last time we spoke. Congratulations - mega!
ALICE CARVILL: Thank you so much! It was a long time coming, there was only so much longer i could live in a bedroom with a tower of cardboard boxes holding all my stock :)
GH: How long have you had your studio for?
AC: I moved in March this year.
GH: What made you choose the building?
AC: Well... I spent two weeks of going to every studio around South East that was available, I don't know what was going on but it was like a rat race at that time. Every space i turned up to would've been taken by the previous person who had viewed it. I sent out an Instagram plea and funnily enough one of the Goodhood staff was my guardian angel and put my in touch with the girl who's now my studio neighbour. She let me know about this place and I took it that afternoon. It was one of those situations where the right thing has been waiting for you. It's a beautiful space and in Camberwell which is so close to my home.
GH: What’s the building like, in terms of the rest of the residents? Always inspiring the share a space with other creative regardless of their medium.
AC: The building is an old printworks, and it's actually really big so we have a lot of people across different disciplines here. Fine artists probably make up the majority, but we have an online record store (Hot Wax), some fashion print designers, and some jewellers. A brand call Hilfreich Jewellery is a couple doors down from me and we often check into each others studios to see what we're working on or do product swaps.
GH: You left Story mfg. to work on ARCS full time - how has life and business changed for you since this transition to full-time?
AC: My friend's remembered who I was and forgave me for being a total recluse for a start. Mainly It's given me time to expand the ready to wear collection, and to source and expand my supply base, both for manufacturing and fabrications - two really integral parts of ARCS which are helping to expand the offering of the collection. I’m still really working on this, I think AW25 will be a big step forward.
"IT WAS ONE OF THOSE SITUATIONS WHERE THE RIGHT THING HAS BEEN WAITING FOR YOU"
GH: What’s your favourite piece from this season, and why?
AC: Aw that’s a mean question! I’ve got few - Easy Mac in Neptune and the Victor Shirt from the clothing, and Super Messenger in Neptune from the bags, it has these mad scrunched sides, it’s got an unofficial name of ‘the clam bag’.
GH: Can you talk us through your approach to designing a new garment or bag? What does forming concepts, initial sketches, fabric selections look like?
AC: Most of my inspiration for collections and pieces comes from everyday life - the brand concept is very centred around utility, modularity and uniform so inspiration comes all of the time. AW25, which I’m working on now, was inspired by finding beauty in routine tasks. After the concept stage, the collection forms chronologically, I start with the things which will take the longest time first, so gathering the fabrics and trims first. This involves talking to my fabric mills about their new developments, and working out if I need to develop any bespoke fabrics. Then I will develop any new hardware with that manufacturer. We’ve been testing out a lot of different finishes for next season. When I’ve gathered a fabric and trims library for the season some fabrics will naturally lend themselves to core shapes, I’m slowly building out a full capsule wardrobe oFFering, so new shapes will be added based on this idea. AW25 has a lot of outerwear development on clothing and some really exciting modular bags.
GH: We launched your first RTW line a few seasons back. Its very exciting for us to see how much it evolves each season! In what ways does this season differ from your first?
AC: This season sees the most shape development so far I think. Starting this season I did a really deep exploration into uniform, there are lots of new shapes and details based on this - the Rise Gilet for example which is an ARCS take on a workwear vest from the ‘50s.
"I DID A REALLY DEEP EXPLORATION INTO UNIFORM, THERE ARE LOTS OF NEW SHAPES AND DETAILS BASED ON THIS"
GH: Everything you do is done in your studio, by you. What does the average day in the studio look like?
AC: It really depends on the point in the season, but first thing I always do is pack orders. Then reply to any suppliers’ – they are all in different time zones so I often wake up to a whole load of questions. Currently I’m finishing oV designing next season, so I’m sketching up ideas + making technical drawings on my computer to send out to suppliers pretty much non stop. There’s always such a mix of things to do- for instnace along side this I’m organising fabric labels and swing tags for the season in production to be shipped to different suppliers.
GH: We moved to our Hanbury Street store earlier this year. Can you recommend any spots local to us?
AC: Pride of Spitalfields is my favourite Shoreditch pub, the landlady is amazing, she gives my dog a water bowl with a slice of orange cut on the side. I’m usually around there at lunch time so will go to BAO or Dumpling Shack in Spitalfields market. On the rare occasion I am there for dinner, Bubala is really good vegetarian food.
GH: If you could go back to the first day you started ARCS, would advice would you give to yourself?
AC: What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger hahaha (and there’s been a few occasions.) Nothing ever goes to plan, but there are always solutions - allow yourself to accept help.
GH: What’s next for ARCS?
AC: This is hard to answer succinctly! There are many things I’m really excited about, the want to always do and be better means it’s always developing and growing.